bikepacking

Tour Divide: What Worked. What Didn't.

The gear you carry on Tour Divide can make or break the ride. Over the days, weeks, months, and years of bikepacking ahead of the start, you pare your packing list down, carrying the minimum necessary to keep you moving forward. Each item needs to function properly, take up minimal space, and be constructed durably enough to handle the distance and difficulty of Tour Divide. Ideally, that item is also fairly lightweight, though gram counting can be a maddening, sometimes futile game. Here's a look at some key gear that I carried. Some of it was amazing. Others were a let down. On the whole, I'm very happy with what I carried. 

Big Agnes AXL Air Insulated sleeping pad: WORKED

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I went with the rectangular pad as I often sleep on my stomach and I wanted more between me and the ground. The AXL Air inflates and deflates quickly, packs small, and kept me plenty warm even on chilly, wet nights. I found it super comfortable no matter the position I found myself snoozing. That's it's pretty darn light is also a nice benefit. I would take this same pad on nearly any bikepacking adventure. 


Bontrager Circuit helmet: WORKED

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At $150, the Circuit is an affordable, feature-laden lid. It fits me well, offering comfortable protection, and is large enough for me to wear a cycling cap or warm hat underneath. The standout feature for me though is the magnetic light/camera mount. It uses a GoPro mount interface and works nicely with Bontrager's own lights. I purchased a K-Edge Niterider mount and bolted and zip-tied it to my Black Diamond Spot headlamp. I was able to easily take the light on and off the helmet while I rode, meaning that I gave my neck a break during the day without making the transition to night riding a long one. 


Julbo Aerospeed sunglasses: WORKED

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From the frameless design to the photochromic lens, I have nothing but love for Julbo's Aerospeed glasses. I wore them during the darkest of nights and the brightest of days and the lens automatically adjusted to the varying light. On my narrow head they didn't fit very tightly but that also meant that over the course of 2,700 miles that they didn't dig into my temples. I added a neoprene Croakie so that I could hang them around my neck when I went into stores and not risk losing them. 


Ortlieb Seat Pack L: WORKED, for a while

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Ortlieb's line of bikepacking bags are not the lightest in the world, but they are built to last and offer waterproof construction. I've used my large Seat Pack for several seasons and during Tour Divide it began to show its age. Somewhere in Colorado, as the heat began to build, it began to sag. The side stiffeners began to bow inward making packing a bit tricky. It also meant that the part of the bag behind the stiffeners could sag and sometimes hit my rear wheel over bumpy terrain. In Salida I bought a new seat bag. In fairness, Ortlieb is taking care of a replacement and I still hold the firm in high regard. 


RedShift Sports ShockStop stem: WORKED

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While I’ve experienced finger numbness and sore hands in the past, this time round I suffered neither. I have to give credit, partially if not entirely, to Redshift’s ShockStop stem. I’ve ridden it a lot now and typically set it up pretty firm but it delivers an affordable, lightweight measure of comfort on mixed surfaces. The company also has a suspension seatpost in the works that I’m eager to try it.  


Shimano XTR Di2 drivetrain: WORKED

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I had thousands of miles aboard Di2 drivetrain before I headed to Banff and I’ve never had issues with the electronics. I know that some are hesitant to make the leap to electronic shifting. Sure, it is expensive. But I've had far fewer issues with it than I have with cable actuated shifting. In the case of Di2, there are no cables that need replacing. It shifts consistently in all conditions and does so while also saving my wrists and fingers from the possibility of overuse injuries from the thousands of shifts one performs during Tour Divide. 

I ran a 2x11 setup using an older 10-speed era XTR Race crank with 42/30 chainrings. On the back I used an XTR 11-40 cassette. I set the system up using Shimano's SynchroShift. I only told the system whether I wanted a harder or an easier gear and it would then shift the front and rear derailleurs according to a pattern that I customized using E-Tube software. So I could shift in both directions, across the drivetrain's entire range, using either hand. This is especially convenient while eating, drinking, or putting on clothes. I also added a set of shifter to my aerobars so that I could stay in them and shift without moving. The shifting is so good that I'm ruined. It's hard to go back to mechanical shifting of even the highest quality.


Castelli Tempesta 3/4 Rain Pant: WORKED, for a while

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Castelli's Tempesta 3/4 Rain Pants are pretty sweet. They offer a great cut for cycling, good ventilation, and pair perfectly with Castelli's Tempesta Leg Warmers for complete wet weather protection. They also have large amounts of reflective materials, increasing visibility day and night. Where they let me down a bit was when, after repeated days of wearing them frequently, the seat of them sprung a leak. It was on a particularly chilly morning, 36-degrees Fahrenheit and raining, that I noticed that my chamois was wet. It was not a comfortable feeling as icy water made its way inside the pants. The next day, after they had dryed out, I found the culprit. I had worn a pair of holes where my derriere made contact with the saddle through the inner layer of the pants. I applied a couple patches using Tenacious Tape and that has worked since. 


MSR Trailshot Pocket-Sized water filter: DIDN'T WORK

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I bought the Trailshot in Whitefish early in the race after seeing a friend using one. Unfortunately, mine (as well as another friend's) packed up and would only deliver water at a trickle despite several flushes. Perhaps there was some user error, but I've researched how to use the MSR since my return with similar results. [On a couple trips since the Divide I've become enamored with Katadyn's BeFree 1L soft bottle. With its integrated filter/nozzle it works exceptionally well, takes up less space, costs less, and can be used to carry an additional liter of water (WIN, WIN, WIN, WIN!)]


 

 

 

Tour Divide Completed

My brother from another mother: Charlie Hayes!

My brother from another mother: Charlie Hayes!

Well it certainly took me long enough! On July 3rd, at 12:55 a.m, I finished the 2018 Tour Divide in 24 days, 16 hours, and 55 minutes. But really, getting to border crossing at Antelope Wells, New Mexico, after riding 2,700 miles, took me close to seven years and four attempts. During that time I've stretched myself as an athlete and even more as a human being. It hasn't been easy. And that's the point. Pressure, stress, and discomfort are required in order to adapt and to grow. Tour Divide delivers that in spades.

So close and yet still a few more hours of riding to reach the finish line!

So close and yet still a few more hours of riding to reach the finish line!

I could not be happier to have finally reached the summit of my personal Chomolungma. But I didn't do it alone. In fact, if not for the amazing people who fill my life, I wouldn't have even dared to dream about racing Tour Divide. It began when I met Joe Meiser in 2011 at Dirty Kanza and heard his tales of his 2009 epic along the Great Divide. Soon after I, like many, saw Ride the Divide, Mike Dion's documentary about the early years of Tour Divide. Then Meiser invited me and another new friend, Jason Gaikowski (who now contributes to Rambleur), on our first multi-day bikepacking trek in the Wasatch Mountains of Utah. That trip thoroughly worked me over but it also injected me with the bikepacking bug. Without it I wouldn't have made it to Antelope Wells a couple weeks ago.

Time with Jason Gaikowski (left) and Joe Meiser is always an opportunity for two things: learning and suffering.

Time with Jason Gaikowski (left) and Joe Meiser is always an opportunity for two things: learning and suffering.

There were many other experiences in the intervening years that helped equip me for Tour Divide. More Dirty Kanza finishes. A week touring the Great Divide with Kristen. A Ramble Ride. Jay P's Gravel Pursuit. Gravel Worlds. Adventure Kanza with Jim, Ryan, Shawn, and Scott. Trans Iowa. A solo tour from Indianapolis to Pittsburgh for Adventure Cyclist. An overnighter with the Barchecks and Kristen. The list goes on and on. All to say that we are the sum of our experiences and I've been blessed with amazing friends, family, and trips.  

Between June of 2011 and July of 2018 a lot has happened (marriage, homeownership, job changes) but Tour Divide has been a constant. My first attempt was in 2013. I headed to Banff for the Grand Depart and made it 1,200 miles before a knee injury sidelined me. I returned to Banff for a solo, individual time trial in 2015. That time around it was a strange ankle ailment that had me limping and unable to pedal. Last year, in 2017, I raced northbound from Antelope Wells, starting with six other brave souls. After seven days, arriving in Salida in the lead of the northbounders, I was toast, a shell of myself hollowed out by loneliness, stomach issues, and spiraling emotions. Even during the race, as I climbed up Marshall Pass, I convinced myself that I would never go return to Tour Divide. But like many of us in this little world of ultra bikepack racing, I too suffer from race-amnesia. 

A remnant from last year's northbound ITT inside the Hachita store. It's not often I top a results posting!

A remnant from last year's northbound ITT inside the Hachita store. It's not often I top a results posting!

Still smarting from last year, I hadn't planned on racing Tour Divide this summer. In fact, it was my unicorn of a wife who suggested I head back to Banff. It was in February as we reviewed my race plans and training numbers that Kristen casually said, "You know you're fitter this February by a big margin over your figures from this time last year. What about another go at Tour Divide?" I nearly spit out the sip of coffee I'd just taken!

After arranging the time off with my ever-accommodating editor at Adventure Cyclist, the Legans went into full planning mode. Kristen and I discussed different ways to tackle the race based on my past experiences and also explored just what it was I was looking for in taking the start line again. The answer became clear fairly quickly. I wanted to finish. I had to put that first. Our approach was a simple one. No time goals. No daily required mileages or ride time. Just ride by feel, keep moving, and get to the Mexican border. 

The first day's riding out of Banff was simply gorgeous!

The first day's riding out of Banff was simply gorgeous!

By letting go of my previous 20-day goal, I freed myself mentally in a big way. As I'll write about in an upcoming post here on Rambleur, it eliminated the stress that can come with a shorter day on the bike during the race. And it turned out that with the really wet weather up north, having the mental agility to roll with the conditions was perhaps the greatest tool I carried. 

Charlie Hayes nears the end of the snow on Richmond Peak.

Charlie Hayes nears the end of the snow on Richmond Peak.

Another important perspective that I gained, especially last year, was that I am far more social than I previously though myself to be. I didn't write about last year's ride much because it was a highly personal experience and it took several months and many chats with close friends and my wife for me to process it all. But, even as uncomfortable as it is, becoming better acquainted with myself is one of the reasons I seek out difficult cycling challenges. They afford me the opportunity to stress myself while working to stay positive, to stay patient, and to keep problem solving and moving forward. So I headed back to Banff and the Tour Divide Grand Depart not just because I would know a few people on the line, but also because I would have to opportunity to make new friends along the way. 

Laura Anderson and Jesse Crocker on Lava Mountain.

Laura Anderson and Jesse Crocker on Lava Mountain.

Trippy light in Idaho as storms sit on the Tetons ahead and the setting sun illuminates my riding partners.

Trippy light in Idaho as storms sit on the Tetons ahead and the setting sun illuminates my riding partners.

And this leads me to the riders with whom I shared the trail, in person and in spirit. To Charlie Hayes, Laura Anderson, Jesse Crocker, Wendy Stevenson, Joel Flowers, Gary Meyer, Ben Weaver, Bailey Newbrey, and many others, I thank you! Finishing Tour Divide wouldn't mean what it does for me without the meals, misery, and laughs that we shared. 

Trusting our GPS's in the Basin

Trusting our GPS's in the Basin

Wendy Stevenson and Sylvia at the Vallecitos Snack Shack

Wendy Stevenson and Sylvia at the Vallecitos Snack Shack

A slow build

Sometimes I can get carried away. When I got back to riding my bike after mostly only working on them for seven years, I was so happy to be pedaling that I often overdid it. I discovered gravel racing and dirt road exploration and dived in whole hog. This led to me attempting the Tour Divide in 2013.

I arrived at the start line in Banff a bit worn out. I had tried to do too much too quickly. In June of that year I had only been back to riding for three years and for two and a half of those, I rode by feel, no really training. I enjoyed long, easy days on the flats but rarely included intensity in my riding routine. While I was far more fit and trim than when I left the pro mechanic gig in 2010, I wasn't physically or mentally ready for a race that big. After 1,200 miles, my knees were giving me serious fits and my mind was a mess. On the drive home from my bailout point of Dubois, Wyoming I nearly swore off the event as "not my thing" and considered touring portions of it. 

Two years later, in July of 2015, I went back to Banff for a solo attempt on the route. I was far more relaxed and I had another two years of riding in my legs, this time with more structure and intensity. Going solo allowed me to stay in my own head instead of focusing on the performance of those around me. And for four days of big riding all went swimmingly. I was in the zone, enjoying the mileage and the solitude. I bumped into fellow travelers along the route and loved the interactions, however brief. Unfortunately an ankle problem surfaced, perhaps as a result of me preventatively taping of my Achilles. As I limped into Butte, Montana (almost literally) I was in good spirits, but knew that the likelihood of completing the route was slim. I sought help, got a massage, soaked, ate, drank and rested for 36 hours. Upon rising at 6am to head south, I almost fell when I put weight on my bad ankle. It was over. But I knew that I would be back. 

After returning home, resting and getting regular therapy on my ankle, my motivation to return to Tour Divide quickly took hold. I decided to build slowly, take a year to race gravel, go on week-long bikepacking trips and spend more time strengthening my core, back, arms, shoulders, legs, wrists and ankles. Yoga has helped. Regular massage and carefully keeping tabs on my bike fit has allowed me to train harder than ever. I ride with less fear than ever before, fear of injury, of a knee or ankle going bad. 

So next year, 2017, I'll be back. This time I'm planning on starting at Antelope Wells, New Mexico and heading north. The change will do me good and it will commit me to an airline ticket at the finish as opposed to a car pick-up in New Mexico. The slow build and the experience from my two previous attempts has me mentally ready. So Banff here I come, next year.